Tips for your trip to the Big Woods of eastern Arkansas

Birders are now welcome and encouraged to become a part of the search for the Ivory-billed Woodpecker. The excitement of seeing an ivory-bill is unsurpassed (or so I have heard) and the birding in and around the Big Woods can be excellent. Here are a few tips to help make your trip as successful and enjoyable as possible.

When to go:
Late fall to early spring is the best time to visit the area if you are after the elusive ivory-bill. Leaves are off the trees during this time, greatly improving your chances of seeing lots of birds. The summer months bring high temperatures, mosquitoes, and water moccasins into the picture.  

Winter temperatures can drop into the 20s but it usually warms up substantially during the day.

The area is a hotbed for duck hunters.  The duck season is usually split, so you may wish to check with the local authorities to schedule your trip around the duck hunting season.

How to get there:
You’ll probably wish to start by making Brinkley your headquarters.  The city has built a reputation as a friendly haven for duck hunters and is now embracing birders flocking to the area.

Brinkley is on Hwy 40, about halfway between Little Rock, Arkansas, and Memphis, Tennessee. It’s a 90 minute drive from either location.

Where to stay:
Quite a number of hotels are in Brinkley, from a new AmeriHost Inn to the recently renamed Ivory-bill Inn.  Contact the Brinkley Chamber of Commerce for a list of hotels. (870-734-2262 or brinkleyc@futura.net)

Before making hotel reservations check out Mallard Pointe Lodge.  Developed as a hunting lodge, and located only 10 minutes from Hwy 40, Mallard Pointe is now welcoming birders. Off the main drag, birders can easily find snipe, American Pipit, and several duck species on the way to the lodge. Check for special rates for birders. Butch Turner is the manager and takes great care of all his guests.

Where to look for the ivory-bill: 
The most famous location for your ivory-bill search is Bayou de View in the Cache River basin. Only about 10 minutes from Brinkley, the area is easily accessible from the Hwy 17 bridge. From Brinkley, take Hwy 49 north. After one mile veer left onto Hwy 17 toward the town of Cotton Plant. At about 7 miles you will cross over the Bayou de View bridge (the only bridge you will cross) and can turn left into a parking area below the height of the road.

Visit the Cache River Wildlife Refuge web site for more details.

From there you can hike above or below the bridge and into areas that are home to several ivory-bill sightings. The initial sightings by Gene Sparlig, Tim Gallegher, and Bobby Harrison took place below the bridge.

Please note:
Both the areas above and below the bridge are currently under managed access regulations. Be sure to obtain the proper permits from the headquarters of the Cache River National Wildlife Refuge (only about a 10 minute drive from the Hwy 17 bridge). Please follow all the rules and do not apply for a “consumptive use” permit unless you plan on coming out with a stringer of fish! You can apply for a permit one day in advance.

The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission publishes a trail map and check list of the Dagmar Wildlife Management Area (state-owned refuge lands) and the Bayou de View area.

After searching the Cache River / Bayou De View area you may wish to move south to the White River National Wildlife Refuge. The White River covers a much larger area and will take more time to explore. The refuge web site provides excellent maps and birding information. The Cornell Lab of Ornithology’s researchers have multiple sound recordings from the White River refuge that many think might have been made by ivory-bills.

Several birding trails have been established, as well as a canoe trail for birders. Visit the new $2.6 million White River National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center for excellent area information and the latest sighting information. (Located on Hwy. 1 in St. Charles, Arkansas.)

How to search:
Your best approach for the Bayou de View area is to use a canoe or kayak. Paddle both upstream and down to cover the entire area.   Paddle as quietly as possible, listening for kent or double knocks that might indicate the presence of an ivory-bill.

You can walk into many areas but walking in the Bayou de View area is a challenge. Much of the area is muddy to swampy and the hidden cypress knees are easy to trip over.

In early winter the leaves on the ground make walking extremely noisy. In all of the search areas it can be a good approach to find a location with an open field of view and then just sit and observe. You are sure to see and hear a lot of birds and maybe even an ivory-bill.

The Lab’s search team refers to the time period from 3:30 in the afternoon until dark as the “magic hour.” This is the time birds will start returning to their roosting locations. It is an especially good time to settle down quietly at a location with a large, unobstructed view and watch for birds flying by.

Ivory-billed Woodpecker identification:
Although there are many species of woodpeckers in the area, the ivory-bill is very large (crow sized) and can be confused only with the pileated. Check the Lab’s ivory-bill web site for identification tips.

You found an ivory-bill!

If you are lucky enough to actually see an Ivory-billed Woodpecker, there are several steps to take.

1. Note the time and location of the sighting as carefully as you can.   GPS coordinates are great if you have a GPS unit.

2.  A toll-free number is available for reporting your sighting: 1-800-440-1477.

3. As soon as possible, make notes on the bird you saw. Include the following, using your own words and observations:

A.  Draw a sketch of the bird -- you do not need to be an artist.

B.  How far away was the bird and for how long did you view the bird?

C.  If the bird was at rest, describe what it looked like.

D.  If you saw the bird in flight, describe its appearance and anything you notice about the way it flies.

E.  What was the lighting like -- was the sun behind you, overhead, etc.?

F.  What kind of optics were you using, if appropriate?

G. Describe how familiar you are with the similar Pileated Woodpecker.

H. Report your sighting via the Lab’s ivory-bill web site.

If you were able to obtain a video of the ivory-bill, remove the video tape from your camera and slide the locking cover to the side.  This will prevent the tape from being accidentally erased.

Birding ethics:
It is very important that birders observe the highest level of birding ethics when in the Big Woods area. Please respect all private property.  Check with either the Cache River or White River refuges for the latest regulations relating to areas open for birding.  As of December 2005, all areas are open, although limited access has been established in certain locations.

The use of recorded kent calls and double knocks, as well as decoys, is prohibited in the wildlife refuges.

The American Birding Association’s Code of Ethics provides excellent guidelines for birders.

Duck hunters:
Birders may run into duck hunters during their visit. If you do so, take a minute to thank them for the work they have done in the area. Duck hunters were responsible for preventing the Corps of Engineers from channeling the Cache, and $41 million, generated from the sale of duck stamps, has been used to acquire much of the preserved acreage.  Without the duck hunters there would be no Cache River Wildlife Refuge…and maybe no Ivory-billed Woodpeckers!

Other birds you might see:
The area is alive with woodpeckers. Eight species can be seen in the Big Woods and the rare Red-cockaded Woodpecker can be found in a nearby section of piney woods.

The area is rich with ducks, including the largest wintering population of Mallards in the country (est. at more than 300,000).

Bald Eagles are often seen soaring overhead or perched on top of trees and snags overlooking wetland areas.

Barred Owls are very common and can be seen perched on trees or stumps along the country roads during the early morning or evening.  Their distinctive call can often be heard echoing through the woods.

Over 260 species live or pass through the area during migration. A check list is available in PDF format on this web page -- look for the "Bird List" in the links on the left side of the page. The list includes Ivory-billed Woodpecker identification information. A simple check list is available here.

Where to eat:
There are several of the usual dining chains in Brinkley.  Most people report that the Ameca Mexican Restaurant next to the Ivory-billed Inn is a good stop but beware that some of their dishes are spicy hot.

A must on your trip to the area is Gene’s Pit Bar-B-Que, home of the world famous Ivory-billed Cheeseburger. It’s always very busy for lunch and offers an early breakfast for duck hunters and birders.

There is a small Wal-Mart in town for last minute shopping.

Most importantly -- if you get a photo or video of the bird give me a call right away so I can connect you with our search team. I am dying to see the bird!

Sam Crowe
Editor - All About Birds
607-254-2415

Area contact infomation and additional resources:

Brinkley Chamber of Commerce
217 West Cypress St.
Brinkley, AR 72021
870-734-2262
Email: brinkleyc@futura.net

Cache River National Wildlife Refuge
26320 Highway 33 South
Augusta, Arkansas 72006
870-347-2614

White River National Wildlife Refuge
57 South CC Camp Road-P.O. Box 205
St. Charles, AR 72140
Telephone: 870-282-8200 /Fax: 870-282-8234
Email: whiteriver@fws.gov

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service "Big Woods Birding Opportunities" web site.

The Lab's Ivory-billed Woodpecker web site, including information on the search, identification, and how to access the search areas.

Suggested Reading:
The Ivory-Billed Woodpecker by James T. Tanner (Dover Publications)

THE GRAIL BIRD by Tim Gallagher (Houghton Mifflin)

In Search of the Ivory-Billed Woodpecker by Jerome Jackson (Smithsonian Books)