Blending into the background
Hints on hiding yourself from birds
By Tim Gallagher
One thing quickly became clear to me when I first started
photographing wildlife: it’s hard to get a decent-sized image of a
bird. For one thing, most birds are small, so you have to get really
close to them to get a good picture. But everything in a wild bird’s
genetic makeup encourages it to flee at the approach of something as
large and threatening as a human. I’ll never forget the disappointment
I felt when I got my first roll of bird slides back from the processing
lab. Although most of the images were in focus and well lit, the
birds—mostly White-crowned Sparrows and House Finches—seemed almost
microscopically small. I knew that if I was ever to have the faintest
hope of producing publishable pictures of birds, I’d have to try
something different, but just what I wasn’t sure.
Stealth mode
The
first thing I did was to buy some camouflage clothing—actually a set of
Marine Corps combat fatigues I found at a war surplus store. They were
great: tough, comfortable, and with roomy cargo pockets on the pants to
hold film, lens caps, and other gear. The only problem was that the
blotches of green, brown, and black camouflage coloring on the fatigues
really didn’t blend in at all with the places where I was doing most of
my photography—in the desert or on the beach. Camouflage is a relative
term, and what blends in completely in one kind of habitat may stand
out boldly from the background in another. So I learned my lesson, and
now I always choose clothing that matches the area where I’m taking
pictures (blotchy dark greens and browns for marsh and woodland
habitats; tans for the desert; white for snow).
But no matter
how well your clothes match your surroundings, they won’t do you any
good if your actions in the field make you too conspicuous. If you
stand around in the open, if you’re noisy, and if your movements are
too broad and quick, you won’t get close to many birds. Instead, try
backing into some dense foliage in a likely looking area for birds.
Then sit down and relax. Stay as motionless as you can and let your
camouflage work for you.
If you have a pale complexion, sunlight
reflecting off your skin can be a problem, advertising your presence
like a bright beacon to passing birds. Some people smear sludge-colored
face paint or even dirt on their faces to minimize this problem. I’ve
never gone that far, but I do sometimes wear a camouflage headnet,
which both hides my face and keeps mosquitoes away.
Shiny metal
tripods also sometimes scare birds. Neutral gray or black tripods are
much less noticeable than chrome-finished tripods. If your tripod is
too bright or reflective, you can wrap camouflage tape around the top
section of each leg. This tape is used by hunters to make their shotgun
barrels less conspicuous and is available at most sporting goods
stores. But be sure to get the kind of tape that comes off easily
without leaving a gooey mess.
Blinds
Of course, the
most effective way to hide from birds is to use a blind, and every
wildlife photographer should have at least one. I’ve had birds come so
close to me while I was hiding in a blind that I couldn’t focus my
telephoto lens on them and had to opt for a less powerful lens. You’ll
find many ready-made portable blinds advertised in photography
magazines and catalogs, and some of them are nice—lightweight, easy to
set up, and extremely compact when disassembled and packed.
One commercially made blind that I often take with me on trips is the “Pocket Blind,” sold by L. L. Rue Enterprises.
The big advantage of this one is that it has no framework and takes up
about the same amount of space in your luggage as a pair of jeans. It’s
basically just a large piece of camouflage material that you drape over
yourself and your tripod and then attach snugly around your telephoto
lens with Velcro. But even this simple blind is expensive, and
sometimes you really want to have a blind with an internal frame so
that you can move around inside it without disturbing the birds, and
these are even costlier.

Personal and pop-up blinds.
If
you decide to build your own blind, many sporting goods stores sell
camouflage material by the yard. I often carry a few yards of it in the
back of my car, just in case I need to put together a quick blind in
the field. Sometimes you can just drape the material over shrubbery to
hide yourself, without erecting any structure at all. Or just hammer
four pointed 3 1/2-foot-long 2x2s firmly into the ground, attach the
camouflage material to them with a staple gun, and cut a slit for your
telephoto lens. Voila! An instant blind. If you’re ambitious, you can
design a more formal blind, using an elaborate framework of wood or PVC
pipe to hold the camouflage material.
Burlap is an inexpensive
alternative to camouflage cloth as a covering for your blind. Lawn
shops and farm and garden supply stores frequently sell it by the yard.
This drab brown material blends in well with many habitats just as it
is, right off the roll. But, if necessary, it’s easy to change its
color, using fabric dye in a washing machine.
Always take time
to study an area carefully before you set up your blind. Look for
places where birds are present at particular times of day, and check
out what the background is like and whether there are any objects that
will get in your way when you’re taking pictures. If plant cover is
available, try to set up your blind so that it blends in naturally with
it. Whenever possible, let your blind stand in the field for a few days
before using it. Birds quickly become accustomed to the presence of a
blind.
And don’t forget to make your blind as comfortable as
possible. You may be spending hours at a time in it. It should be at
least three feet high, so you can sit up and change your position if
you get stiff. In damp or guano-covered places, put down a waterproof
ground cloth to keep you and your equipment clean and dry. And take
plenty of water and snacks.
Whether you use an elaborate blind
or simply wear camouflage clothing, once you learn the importance of
blending into the background, you’ll find that your ability to get
close to wild birds will improve enormously. But you must be willing to
wait. Remember, patience is the greatest virtue and the supreme skill
in bird photography.
Tim Gallagher is editor-in-chief of Living Bird magazine.
This article was originally published in the Autumn 2000 issue of Living Bird magazine.